Melaka !

Continuation from previous chapter of Motormouth in Malacca Again (Part One) ….

That Portuguese seafood feast was somewhat disastrous, but given the dire state of my gut at that very moment, I would be balking at the sight of, say ….  Lobsters, Alaskan King Crabs, or even Bluefin Tuna.

The very next morning, after some serious deliberation, I agreed to a ‘light’ breakfast at our guesthouse – Tang House. Breakfast is provided FOC for your information, to guests only. Though we saw many outsiders, even construction workers from a nearby area having their leisurely-paced breakfast at the cafe, for the pricing is rather reasonable. Even comparable to the average coffee shops, with drinks priced at below RM2.

I had an Egg Burger, which was an omelette sandwiched between an Apollo bun, that most nostalgic wave washing over me all of a sudden. I could imagine the ancestor seated on the very same stool, biting into his Apollo bun with kaya and butter decades ago. Morbid thought?

The day started with a second breakfast (yeah, THAT fast although I was already half-repulsive at that thought) at Donald & Lily’s, a small charming outlet situated at the back of Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, within walking distance from the centre of Melaka town, the Jonker Walk area.

Donald & Lily’s serves a myriad of Nyonya delights, from the perennial favourite of Nyonya Laksa to classic Ayam Pongteh, Curry Asam Fish and even Taukua Rojak. The Cendol of course, is another one of their forte, as Malacca’s version of Cendol is luscious, drizzled with thick, nectar-ish sweetness of gula melaka, or palm sugar syrup.

The Nyonya Laksa at Donald & Lily’s was heavily laden with santan (coconut milk), a little too decadent for some. I tasted one spoonful of the broth and stayed away from the noodles. Not to say it’s particularly bad, but the cloying aftertaste was a little too taxing to the stomach. And remember, Nyonya Laksa is NOT Curry Laksa, so don’t make comparison.

The Mee Siam was passable, albeit slightly too tangy for some. The noodles was appetizing enough, almost reminded me of Kerabu Beehoon, served with chopped omelette, sliced fish cakes, fried shallots, julienned cucumber and a squeeze of lime juice for that zesty flavour.

But the Ayam Pongteh (a most traditional Nyonya dish of braising chicken with soy sauce, some palm sugar syrup/gula melaka, and stewed with potatoes) was a most delicious affair, screaming for white rice to soak in all the lovely, savoury juices. But on its own, the chicken and potatoes can be a little salty, but we relished every bite of the tender chicken and the huge chunks of potatoes.

We were not expecting much from the Cendol, for the previous visit revealed that Donald & Lily’s version was somewhat lacklustre, in comparison to say, the thicker and robust Jonker 88′s version, redolent with the sweetness of gula melaka syrup. But this time around, the Cendol at Donald & Lily’s fared much better, and the addition of sago added a much delightful texture to the whole concoction. The red beans and cendol (those green, wriggly strands made from green pea flour) were nothing to shout about, being nothing more than generic versions of each. But the right ratio of coconut milk and gula melaka was spot-on, refreshingly addictive, I was actually contemplating on my second bowl, had it not been my weak stomach then. Hmmm …..

Address & Contact Number :
Donald & Lily’s Corner – Nyonya Food, Cendol, Pineapple Tarts
Behind of No 31, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street),
Melaka, Malaysia.
Telephone : 606-284 8907.
Business Hours : 9.30am – 4.00pm
Closed on Mondays.

Then we ventured a short drive away, about 10 minutes from old Melaka town, to Jalan Tengkera for the most classic and famous Nyonya Kuih of Malacca. Sadly they were CLOSED for the holidays (this being the eve of New Year) that few days, and we ended up with some battered egos.Shucks, big time.

Yeah, damn proud to be able to locate that most secluded gem, only accessible using a most constricted pathway off the main road of Jalan Tengkera. You can read about the Nyonya kuih production house HERE.

Address & Contact :
Baba Charlie Nyonya Kuih
72, Lorong Pantai Tengkera 2C,
off Jalan Tengkera, Tengkera, Melaka.

Here’s a GOOGLE MAP to Baba Charlie Nyonya Kuih @ Tengkera

Left with nothing to do, we did the next best thing. We ATE again. No wonder I was not recovering in time for the new year huh? Hehehe … Anyway, we had our lunch (yes, after repeated breakfasts back to back) at Cottage Spices at Plaza Mahkota, a restaurant serving delectable Nyonya dishes.

I think this outlet is rather new, and came to our attention while we were making our rounds at Plaza Mahkota area in search of Nadeje’s Mille Crepe cakes. The restaurant was crowded the night before, hence the age old rule applies here; Go to a restaurant most crowded, and you’re bound to be pleased somewhat.

Half true, I’d say.

By then, I was already  feeling the effects of the bowl of icy cold Cendol, mixing it up with the Nyonya Laksa, Mee Siam and Ayam Pongteh. In short, I was in NO mood to eat anything at all.

So when the five dishes arrived on our table, I was rather glad the portions was dainty. But far from cheap, if you’re wondering. The small slab of fish (pardon me, I’ve no idea what the species was) was grilled lightly atop a banana leaf, then topped with some piquant sambal with chopped raw onions, and served with a side saucer plate of dark soy sauce, a squeeze of lime and some chopped red chillies. The fish was fresh, succulent, but nothing that jumped at us. Should’ve gone for the Asam Fish instead.

The Nyonya Acar (spicy, pickled vegetables) (RM12/USD3.40) stayed true to its roots, being different from the nutty sauce we’ve grown accustomed to. The stuffed green chillies was a nice touch, though I was apprehensive after scorched by the day before’s stuffed red chillies at Ban Lee Siang Satay Celup.

The Sambal Sotong with Petai (Spicy chili squids with stinkbeans) (RM14/USD4) tasted fabulous, the crunchy petai added much relished pungency, texture and flavour to the chewy pieces of squids. The Telur Cincalok (Egg omelette with fermented small shrimps) (RM7/USD2) is an almost long gone tradition, very scarcely found in other eateries nowadays. The faint pungent nuance of the Cincalok will not put off even the most discerning of diners, for the omelette was slightly salty only, and tasted like your average ‘Foo Yong Dan’.

The Otak-Otak (Fish souffle?) (RM9.80/USD2.80) reminiscence of Muar’s version of otak-otak, thankfully. I am not a fan of northern style otak-otak, whereby the heavy scent of lemongrass is overwhelming.

The bill came to RM85, a little pricier but the comfortable dining environment (the place is air-conditioned, but with limited seats), and the authentic Nyonya dishes made up for the hefty bill somehow.

Address & Contact Number :
Cottage Spices – A Taste of Melaka
G26, Jalan PM5,
Plaza Mahkota, Bandar Hilir,
75000 Melaka, Malaysia.
Telephone : 606-283 5040.
Website : http://www.cottagespices.com.my

Here’s a GOOGLE MAP TO COTTAGE SPICES

And what better way to end the gastronomic getaway, than some sweet endings? We bought some pineapple tarts back, from LW Nyonya Pineapple Tarts, and Donald & Lily’s (the former’s better), and few slices of Mille Crepe cakes from Nadeje Patisserie @ Plaza Mahkota. Read my previous post for the full review.

This time around, we tried 6 different flavours, being : Original, Rum & Raisins, Cheese, Green Tea, Double Chocolate and  Banana Chocolate. Eat them FRESH, I’d suggest. They even gave small ice packs, for those long journeys. So thoughtful. But still, eat the Mille Crepes on the same day, do not leave them overnight, for they’re prepared freshly everyday, and no preservatives.